Thursday, April 21, 2011

Moving into the Modern World!

Business Efficiency on the Up!
It wouldn't normally be a subject of particular interest, I know, but considering we moved to Nairobi to improve our communication with the outside world, it has to be worth a line or two!

First and foremost, to all with a Skype connection, we can at last speak to you and hear you without too much frustration.... we can even manage a video hook-up without breaking the bank!  Let me back-track a little and set the scene....
To access the internet in a land where hard-wired connections to your home are at best, unusual and in Naivasha were impossible, mobile connection was the only option.  You buy a "dongle", stick it into a USB port and with luck are able to pick up a connection; in Naivasha we managed a measly 2kbps link from home; Nairobi was significantly better and at certain hours we exceeded 1mb! Ensuring that the service was available as and when needed means that your dongle must be loaded....
A subset of our collection of scratchcards,
none of which were winning cards:-(
As Kenyan newbies, we were stuck with the pre-paid approach which required for both our phones and the internet, buying an inordinate number of scratch cards.  There is a catch, having loaded your dongle, you then have a 30 day limit in which to use your data "bundle".  Finding the balance between having enough capacity and not throwing money away was a challenge.  Skype sessions incidentally, are particularly effective at eating through your bundle at a rate of knots.  A further challenge came in the form of actually having the pre-requisite number of scratchcards necessary to re-load when your bundle ran out of kbs...available pretty much anywhere, from the street vendors to supermarkets it shouldn't be a problem to pick up a card, but TIA rules apply!  One attempt to purchase Safaricom cards was particularly frustrating, 
At the supermarket... "We have none", "When do you expect to have some?", "Perhaps soon...."
At the garage... "I think they are gone", "Can you check and see if you have any, please?", "They have gone..."
In desperation...with the street vendor.. 'They will come", "I understand but I need a Safaricom card now", "I think perhaps you must use a Zain card", "Zain is not the provider for my dongle, I need Safaricom", "The Safaricom card will come"..... and so will our rapid admission to the local psychiatric unit!

Our days of internet frustration are over!  After weeks of trying to get someone, anyone at Safaricom to respond to email messages, telephone messages and personal visits to their shops to get a business package, Jon eventually made contact with Alex, who provided us with a service second to none!  Within a week of Alex being on the case the engineers were on their way to put a mast up on our house and a post-paid account set-up with unlimited bandwidth -Woohoo!

Before reading what follow it is important to know that a detailed map to our house was provided to Safaricom.

The telephone calls from the driver started at 08.45....
"Where are you?" asks the driver
"Where are you?" responds Jon
"Langata Cemetry"
"Its easy from there, straight up Langata to the roundabout at Karen Junction, turn left on to Ngong Road, follow the Ngong Road until you reach the Shade Hotel and turn right at the next junction"
"What?"
For the sake of brevity, the previous two sentences were repeated four times, eventually the driver responded with "I will call you when I get to the junction"

30 minutes pass
Phone rings, "Where are you?" asks the same driver
Above scenario repeated several times....

10 minutes pass
Phone rings, "I can't find you, can you come to me?
"Where are you?" asks Jon
"Windy Ridge, at the Italia Osteria Restaurant"  Given the instructions above (repeated on numerous occasions), J was at a loss to understand why the driver had made an unscheduled stop.....
"Its really simple, turn right on to Ngong Road heading towards Ngong Town, turn right on to Kerarapon Road immediately after the Shade Hotel"
"OK, I will call you when I get there"  (Note we are literally 2 kms along a straight road from Windy Ridge)

10 minutes pass
Phone rings, "Where are you?"
"Where are you?"
"Shade Hotel"
"I am not at the Shade Hotel, turn right after the hotel on to Kerarapon Road, go to the barrier ask the security guard where we are"

10 more minutes pass.....
Phone rings again....."I am in Kanaiya Close, where are you?"  Given that there are only four other houses in the close and that we are at number three the challenge was not enormous.

11.00 AM 5 more minutes pass, J opens the gate and gesticulates to the vehicle sitting in the middle of the road to come into our driveway.  

FOUR "engineers" climb out of the car and remove from their boot a laptop, a screwdriver, a drill, a pair of pliers, the mast, an extension lead and a roll of wire.  What they did not have was a ladder, given that the mast was to be mounted on the roof we were wondering if levitation was the approach to accessing their mounting point. (additional TIA fact - anybody who needs to access the roof for whatever purpose will never bring a ladder - if you want the job done ensure you have the requisite ladder or at least several long pieces of wood that they can nail together to climb up).

11.20 Work starts....

Hard at work, playing online gambling game
"the signal must be tested"
Hard at work, the Supervisor who
later moved under a tree
The seemingly simple task of erecting a pole and attaching it to the chimney was clearly exhausting and took just over two hours, the excessive time required probably because we were not willing to accept their proposal to "drape the wire over the roof and into the house through an open window".  Asking them to feed the wire under a roof tile and into the house via the loft space was greeted with tutting and shaking of heads.

13.30 Activity in the house begins with an attempt to connect our router to their network cable.....

"I have never seen one of these before" (Apple Time Machine Router)
"Just the same as any other router, plug the wire in there and set the parameters"
Glazed look....
J provides access to the router and left them to it....those of you who have seen our entertainment system will know that after a certain length of inactivity the screensaver will be projected on to the wall, the screensaver being our photograph library.  This miracle of modern technology clearly outweighed the need to do their job and all four engineers spent an hour sitting, mouths agape, watching our photographs scroll across the wall, who needs cinema?
The following two hours were spent entering the same sequence of numbers into the router, over and over again, clearly the expectation was that eventually the network spirit would take pity upon the intrepid engineers and accept the right combination of numbers.   Understanding that the network spirit could be in a similar pose to the one depicted above; numerous, increasingly frenetic calls to the technical department at Safaricom were also made.

16.25 "It works"  
"Thanks, bye" No tip given, three appointments missed, a day wasted.....

Postscript....two days following the installation, our routine alarm check revealed that the Safaricom engineers had unplugged our intruder alarm/panic button system leaving us without the means to hail our friendly brick shit house sized guards in the event of an emergency.  Suffice to say that Ultimate Security employ significantly better qualified engineers complete with ladders!

Stationery Supplies
Coming from Europe and having needed to source stationery in large quantities on a regular basis we naively thought that it would be relatively simple to obtain a similar service here......WRONG (again).  Despite the fact that Nairobi is the major conference destination in East Africa, has hundreds of legally registered and probably thousands of unregistered businesses, you would assume (wrongly) that stationery would be easy to find.  The most recent edition of the Yellow Pages has at least 50 stationery suppliers listed. This  does not mean that:
a) They are actually in business
b) That the contact numbers listed are accurate
c) That having made contact there will be anyone who understands your needs (90gsm paper)

Visit to OfficeMart Shop - they are in business and have numerous physical premises in Nairobi
"Do you have 90gsm paper"
"No"
"Can you get 90gsm paper"
"No"
"Are you sure?" You may think that we are a little arrogant in asking this question, however, limited but intense exposure to general shop assistants has proven that they do not see any need to verify if a product is indeed available, this would necessitate moving from the spot of choice in which to spend their day.
"mmmmm, yes" followed by a resumption of their conversation with colleague or on permanently connected mobile phone.
"Errr, excuse me, I am not finished"
"What?"
"Do you have an HP05X toner cartridge"
Sigh, "I will call you back" and puts mobile phone in pocket  
Stares at large stack of HP inkjet cartridges for a protracted period
"No"
An irritate Jon responds..."It won't be there, you are looking at Inkjet cartridges, not toners"
Glazed look
"No, we won't have it"
J heads for nearest watering hole, shaking head and rolling eyes.

J resorts to the internet, not a generally viable approach here but when needs must...
Office Mart (again) - they have a website!  No prices, no online ordering - for each item you must send an individual enquiry about availability and price.  A request for catalogue resulted in a powerpoint presentation being sent via email, again without prices!  There is no such thing in Kenya as an RRP.  Prices are subject to fluctuation dependent on far too many variables to calculate.

It works!  It takes five emails to order one item but it works! 

John, the despatch rider arrives with coolbox
containing plastic wallets and toner cartridges,
on top of which were strapped two boxes of paper -
glad we didn't order the filing cabinet,
although the delivery would have been a joy to behold
- see previous blogs!

Documents wallets tied up with string,
less than perfect packaging but the
requisite
supplies at last in the office!










Back to Safaricom
The scratchcard story applies to our mobile phones too.  Post-paid accounts are a recent development here requiring the patience of Job to set up an account.
First join the Safaricom queue, anticipate a minimum of 10 people before you...
One hour later, reach the service desk and collect the inevitable forms.
Forms completed at home in less than five minutes and scans of ID card and PIN number attached.
Return to a Safaricom shop (Yaya Centre), queue......
"Sorry, you cannot do that here, we are not a Safaricom shop"
"Ummm, you have large signs everywhere indicating that this is a Safaricom shop, you are selling telephones and you are wearing a Safaricom uniform"
"No, this is the wrong shop"
"Where do I have to go?"
"Another shop"
"Any particular shop?"
"Yes, a Safaricom shop"
S, having spent two hours getting to this particular Safaricom shop is less than impressed and sees yet another day in Nairobi traffic ahead.
Another TIA addition - what should be a five minute job inevitably leads to a full day out of the office and no guarantee of success.

A Real Safaricom Shop (Sarit Centre)
No visual difference between the real and imaginary shops although queues perhaps a little longer.
J enters queue, S goes shopping
35 minutes later S returns..."You haven't moved"
J has become Kenyan, "No", S leaves
40 minutes later S joins J at desk where assistant is mumbling and verbally asking for the information written on the form in front of him. 20 minutes later he has managed to enter name, address and telephone number for J's phone.  A further 10 minutes of staring at the screen...."its not working, there is a problem", he leaves and enters what looks like a cupboard.  10 minutes later he resurfaces puts J's paperwork to one side and starts on S's application, regrettably slightly more complicated  as international roaming required.
A further 30 minutes later J leaves for the bank to withdraw vast sums of cash required as a deposit.  
Having handed over the cash S is informed that service on her phone would be interrupted until credit checks have been completed.  J is happy as Larry (whoever he is) that he can now make calls (up to the limit of his deposit) and no more, regardless without ever having to scratch another card.

Lessons Learned
Patience
Patience
PATIENCE
Sod it, let's go and have a drink....

We are now connected!

Kwaherini!

 




Monday, April 11, 2011

Ups and Downs

House and Garden Staff
Yes, when we were growing up we called the staff servants.  This is not to imply they were treated as lesser beings it was just a time when you called things what they were.  Today you have house staff, garden staff, and where appropriate, child-caring staff.  I suppose that if you live in the realms of the well-to-do then your staff may also include drivers, grooms (for your horses), cooks, askaris...the list is endless.  In fact, management of your household staff can rapidly become a full time job!

The upsides of our house staff..... (assuming they are full-time!)
  • Your house is cleaned every single day and not by you! 
    Note that in Africa this is not a luxury it is a necessity, dust appears as if by magic and if you do have animals that roam inside and outside you can guarantee that your home is in need of a deep clean at least once every 24 hours.
  • Clothing, bedding, in fact anything you wash, (including undies) is immaculately ironed and put away. 
    Jon and I detest ironing, the cost of house staff is covered by this chore being taken away from us in one fell swoop.
  • No sooner have you used a kitchen utensil and it is washed up.
    Dishwashers are truly redundant here.
  • In-built cat-sitter
    Helen who looks after us also looks after the boys, and don't they know it!  All four of them have her running to fulfill their every need.  Maisha will even abandon our bed at night, albeit occupied by Kidogo, Rafiki and Boshi as well as us, for the relative tranquility of Helen's bed in the staff quarters.

The downsides....
Every coin has two sides and housestaff don't always work out the way you had hoped.
  • There is always someone else in the house, a languorous lie-in?  mmmmm - not going to happen.
  • It takes time to instill work practices that give you the result that you want, the way you want it.
  • The responsibility, you may think you are employing a single person but your responsibility for care may extend to children, parents, and a seemingly unlimited number of other family members
  • Electrical implements suddenly develop an extremely limited life span.

Vacuum cleaners are relatively uncommon in most households, this makes sense because carpeting, if any, is probably limited to a few rugs.  Our trusty Dyson however found its way into the container and so is here for use.  In an attempt to help our then houseman we introduced him to vacuuming the sofa. Ignoring the fact that emptying the machine was clearly needed he would continue to wave the machine around wildly, believing that a magical process would ensure that dust/dirt/cat hair etc. would leap from the tiniest crack or crevice, spirit itself across the room and disappear into the Dyson.

Power cuts continue to haunt us and the staff.  The magical machine, Dyson was, in Richard's mind immune to such inconveniences.  Regardless of power being present or not, Richard would plug in the hoover and still move it around the room.  It was explained on several occasions that the electricity was off.  This was greeted with a glazed look and the comment "but it doesn't work", "Richard, the power is off", "Yes, but it doesn't work", Jon, a little irritated now, reminds Richard that the plug, taking it out of the wall is attached by a lead to the machine and that it needs current to operate, response....yes, you've guessed it "Yes, but it doesn't work".  Those of you who know Jon can imagine the response!    Suffice to say the Dyson is now stored in a locked room.  We have reverted to the manual method which, in honesty, is considerably more efficient! 
Radishes 3.5cms in diameter
coming out of our soil!

The upsides of garden staff...
  • No lawn-mowing
  • No weeding
  • No disposing of half-eaten snakes, lizards, rats, birds or any other living thing the cats have managed to catch, taste and then reject in preference of canned tuna served in a clean bowl
  • No need to wash your car

We have just started to harvest our very first veggies from the garden!  Woohoo!  Salad with fresh radishes on the menu!  What makes this all the more remarkable is that it seems like it was only yesterday that Juma planted the seeds.   Mealies, carrots, tomatoes, onions, leeks and butternut on their way....

The downsides of garden staff....
There are none. Even the deepest thinking process is unable to bring to the surface anything to put in this section............

Future Plans
Yes, I know planning for the future when we are not even settled where we are seems a tad premature.  Kenya though is going through what can only be described as hyperdrive in terms of increasing land and house prices.  For many reasons we want to be out of Nairobi as quickly as possible and as the coast is not an option, "up-country" it will have to be.  Laikipia is the area we have chosen, situated on the equator, in the Great Rift Valley, our current plan is to live fairly close to one of the two "major" towns, Nanyuki. 

Nanyuki Market
No we haven't developed a predilection for cabbages although it is staple of the average Kenyan's diet.  In honesty our purchases from this market will be limited to fruit and the more boring veg, potatoes, onions, carrots and tomatoes.  Before you shout, I know, tomatoes are fruits not vegetables.

The market is however in the major town of the area in which we are currently searching for a big piece of land.  Farmers in development?  No, land is significantly cheaper when bought in giant chunks and so the plan is to buy between 10 and 20 acres with a few couples/families all who want a home in Kenya but not in Nairobi.  We already have a few takers....if you are interested in owning between 2 and 5 acres in the Nanyuki area on which to build a home or just to have as an investment let us know!  Yannick, our long-standing Belgian friend is joining our land hunt next month during which time we will grab the opportunity to visit the nearby chimp sanctuary.  The goal is to have identified and bought land within the next six months and to have a home there within two years.  If you are the tinniest bit interested have a look at the  Laikipia Wildlife Forum for more about the area, http://www.laikipia.org/ - I promise you will be booking your tickets immediately!
 
Grevy's Zebra

Wild Dogs
                      
Why a safari in the Laikipia area beats national parks in Kenya into second place!

 eco4u
Receives its first products, the AirconMisers in a few days and we are exploring every possible opportunity to get up and running are quickly as possible.  It seems a no-brainer....for a relatively low investment you can make substantial savings on your electricity bill and help to protect the planet!

Thanks to Steven I can actually attach eco4u's logo....having spent six hours trying to convert an ai. file into a low res jpeg I was losing my mind and the will to live.  Stevie managed the seemingly impossible in a minute.  
Let us know if you love it or hate it!




Kwaherini!