Wednesday, January 26, 2011

The Move to Nairobi

Ouch, this hurts....
In the year preceding our move to Kenya we believed, naively, that settling in Naivasha was going to be the most straightforward component of our relocation.  We had a fully furnished home to move into and had agreed the purchase of a glorious piece of land.  So far so good.  The reality is that Naivasha will only work for us when we retire, the infrastructure, certainly where we chose to live, is not conducive to global communications!

Reasons to live in Naivasha - The house, the flamingoes, Zebbie (our resident zebra foal), the Lake!


The beach that would have been
our home....not sure how good this would
have been as a working environment!


For a few short weeks we toyed with the idea of moving to the South Coast and again were lucky enough to have a perfect home to move into.... the internet devil foiled our plans once more and so to Nairobi it is!






It's not all bad in Nairobi
OK, I am the first to admit that we can, at the drop of the hat, list at least ten reasons why living in Nairobi is not a good option, so it's time to be fair and start enjoying the positives....
Brollies are for the eles
not their handlers
Wildlife....Nairobi National Park, the Ele Orphanage and Giraffe Centre on our doorsteps and easy driving to Nakuru, Samburu, Amboseli and, of course......the Mara!
Work Infrastructure... internet connection speeds up to 5.6MB per second (yay - we can work), JKIA with connections to anywhere we want (or need) to go, KEMRI and PPB on our doorstep, access to everything we need for printing and developing materials, the list goes on and on and on and on.....
Shopping...if you want it you can get it, even better the shops come to you!  For those of you who haven't sat in traffic in Nairobi...you need to be able to assess the merchandise, bargain, decide and then purchase through your car window!  The range of goods available varies but in season fruit and veg, knock-off designer sunglasses and essential emergency equipment for cars can pretty much be guaranteed!  Shopaholics will be in heaven with opportunities for a bargain seven days a week!  Our favourite non-essentials include Matbronze and Kitengela Glass.  Give us a few months for an extended list......
Eating Out... there is as much variety as you want, mealies on the roadside to international a la carte:-)
Friends...we would not have survived our early days in Kenya without Jayne and Dave, Vanessa and Terry, David and Karen, and from far from their homeland, Doreen and Jenny! 

Just when we thought the sailing was going to be smooth...
Everything sorted for the big move....vehicle organized with the possessions we have managed to accumulate, a surprisingly large amount considering we've been here such a short time!  All moving according to plan except that we forgot to apply the TIA (This is Africa) factor. Our new home which should have been ready today will only be ready on Monday 31st; its not the end of the world admittedly but it does throw all our plans into a cocked-hat.  I will be Kisumu while Jon tries to juggle ten balls, all of which have the potential to be influenced by TIA variance.  Once again J will move into a new home without me:-(

TIA Variance
Time is a fluid concept, "today" could mean anytime within the next 48-72 hours but don't be surprised if it takes a week or never happens at all.
Asking for your car to be filled up - "The tanker isn't here yet", "When will it be here?", "15 minutes"....see comment above and make sure you have a sleeping bag handy.
"Yes" means perhaps (if you are lucky) but normally not.
"No" is rarely used, even when justified.
"Hakuna matata" - Disney is lying to you, this does not mean no problems.  This means there is a problem and its yours!
Access to electrical power is a luxury, not an essential (the same applies to petrol, water or anything you actually need at a specific moment in time).

Our current favourite...."Where is my container?", "In Mombasa", "Why is it still in Mombasa?", "The Customs officers did not go to work today..." 
What can you say except TIA!

To better illustrate the TIA concept, a brief anecdote....
Trains run daily between Nairobi and Mombasa as they have done for a century....technology has improved (some may disagree) and today the train is powered by diesel.   However, the train still stops in Voi for an hour "to take on water" according to the timetable of 1947 when steam was king!  

Ask why and the response will be ....This is Africa!

You love it or you loathe it....we are working on loving it, albeit through gritted teeth!

Kwaherini

Sunday, January 23, 2011

60 Days in 60 (or thereabouts) Lines

It started in chaos....
Prepare, prepare, prepare!  If I am not mistaken this is something we preach at RTS and CRAFrica, so how is it that our preparations simply fell to pieces?  A wise man once said to us 'you have to be mad to live in Kenya', we laughed, and promptly forgot it.  It's time to acknowledge the depth of that statement "you have to be mad to consider living in Kenya, certifiably insane to actually do it!"

For those of you who don't know already, our dream of living in Naivasha turned into something of a nightmare and we about to move to Nairobi....if you are one who have heard us swearing that never, in a million years would we live in Karen....well, the drinks are on us.

Check out the medical services!
Jon has identified a novel method for stopping the overhead circulating fan, let's be honest, walking around the room to the on/off switch is not always convenient!  We won't be putting any money on the method catching on and it is a serious health risk but hey, it works.  Simply use your thumb as a brake for one of the blades (note to short people - standing on the bed or other piece of accessible furniture may be required).  Results are messy and will require the services of the local hospital or a good seamstress.  J carries a scar for life reminding him of Day One as a Kenyan resident!

Driving In Kenya - should be easy, they drive on the Left!
Driving in Nairobi and beyond requires a set of skills no European driving school offers.  Armed with a full driving licence getting on to the road in a vehicle is not a problem, staying alive on the road is another issue entirely.  The rule of thumb is to avoid hitting anything that is in front of you and don't worry about what is going on behind, to the side, above or below you. 
What you must know....
Matatus (shared taxis) rule the road.  
Habitat - anywhere a fare-paying passengers can be found, that covers probably every road in the country
 Appearance - of mini-bus origin, decorated in a wide variety of colours often supported by an onboard light and sound show
Road-worthiness - miraculously they get from A - B on a fairly consistent basis
Unique characteristics - appear from nowhere requiring evasive action from all other drivers, carry sophisticated equipment allowing their drivers to see around corners, over hills and through solid rock, most impressive of all is their magical ability to absorb passengers...they is always place for one more!



Mobile Hazards are vast and in our experience (so far) include, wandering people, bicycles carrying anything from people to sofas, motorcycles with up to four passengers + driver, inter-city buses, goat, sheep, cattle, donkeys, zebras. giraffe, monkeys, baboons, impala, warthogs, jackals, dik-dik (you get the idea), men with carts, donkeys pulling carts, abandoned carts...



A detailed survey leads us to believe
that pineapple
is the No.1 choice
of vervets in Naivasha
Trying to Work 
1. We still don't have our container
2. The suns shines every day
3. Power outtages encourage outdoor living
4. The staff are working in the house


Boshi amidst the thorns of
an acacia tree
The reasons above are some of our excuses for spending 99% of daylight hours (06.00-18.00) outdoors.  Imagine the set up....numerous trailing extension leads hook up the electronic equipment we managed to bring with us, sitting on safari camp chairs overlooking the garden shaded by giant acacias.  Having fed the birds with left over fruit from breakfast we can guarantee that the vervet monkeys will pay us a visit at some point.  The boys (cats) seem to have settled down to a truce with the monkeys although every now and again they do race up the trees in an attempt to catch one of them.  The monkeys have long since realised that the boys are no threat, sleeping being their primary daytime activity.  All of this leads to the challenge of staying focused at work.....

The Surprises
Raspberries being freely available
Choosing to live in Karen
The cats' capacity for sleep
The number of vehicles travelling between Nairobi and Naivasha at all hours of the day and night
Leaning to ornithology as a form of entertainment
Moving to the "hard" level of Guitar Hero

Some Ups.....                            and Downs
Sunshine - every day!                                                          Our boys (and girls) seem a long way away
The wildlife, birdlife and the people                                     Dust, its impossible to stay clean
Anything is possible....it may take a while                           Internet speeds averaging 20kbps
House staff                                                                           Customs delays, we want our container (PLEASE)
Having family and friends visit                                             Biting insects
Good friends who consistently help us out of                     The lack of maps we can follow
our current jam                                                                     Having to move to the city
Its easy to communicate in English                                     Power failures that can last for hours
Driving to Naivasha is a mini safari                                      Driving to Nairobi is at best terrifying        
Charcoal braais (with wors)
The ability to buy just about anything at
the side of the road
Frangipanis in the garden

Kwaherini!